Why go out so far? Most whale-watch charters spend less than six hours and cover only easily reached fishing grounds, like Stellwagen Bank and Nantucket Shoals, known to be patrolled by whales and birds. Men follow the birds that follow whales and dolphins on the rounds of their summer feeding routes. Species on such relatively near-to-shore loops tend to be fairly predictable: at best, four species of Shearwater, two Petrels, two Jaegers, the usual Gulls and Gannets, and a few errant shorebirds and Passerines. But, as still-limited experience proves, traveling longer distances to very deep ocean trenches decisively ups the ante for spotting coveted rare birds.
The trip devolves, like some marathon Greek play, into three six-hour acts: Go. Chase. Return. Act I, outside the breakwater, plays like riding a sports-bar mechanical bull, as head-on six-foot waves buffet the boat mercilessly. In contrast, Act II unfolds all sweetness and light, with comfortably breezy weather, gentle waves surfing east along the shelf, and the sun arching behind us as we stalk our prey. We quietly approach small flocks of sitting Storm-petrels. When they suddenly explode off the surface, we try to get a bead on the 1 in 200 that is more easily distinguished by its flight style than by its slightly larger size. The very rare Band-rumped Storm-petrel glides and banks, and there are a few of the almost-rare, intermediate-sized Leach's.
Clustered around the wheelhouse, co-leaders and spotters Rick Heil, Jeremiah Trimble, Marshall Iliff, and Steve Mirick keep as keen a watch as possible to all compass points. When someone pipes up--"pod of grampus at 9 o'clock!" or "Cory's Shearwater dead astern!"--Cap'n Joe immediately responds; he'll slow and tack, or reverse direction and give full speed chase. "Sure, I could just take out fishing parties all season long," says Cap'n Joe, resetting his course at the wheel, " but this is more exciting, a different kind of challenge."
The seas are typically barren for most of the daylight hours. Birders peer for hours at empty waves, horizon, and clouds--azure on gunmetal on white. The few sightings of fin or wing are cause for stirring and sudden scrambling for position port or starboard. Highlights cluster around midday, when solo birds made very dramatic entrances. The first is a young (brownish) Long-tailed Jaeger that zooms over the boat eliciting 'oohs!' and 'aahs!'.
The second is a rare and dashing Bridled Tern. In the words of head spotter and trip reporter Heil, this "stunning and very inquisitive first summer bird put on a great show as it circled the boat several times." Cheers go up as the compact, brindled white-and-black bird eventually loses interest and fades astern. The Tern and Jaeger turn out to be "lifers" (first-time ever sightings) for many thrilled birders.
Birds are not the only prized sightings. Pods of playful Saddleback and Bottle-nosed Dolphins run with the ship minutes at a clip, surfacing and jostling to race alongside, then easily cut across the speedy boat's bow. A few aboard glimpse a Blue Shark, Atlantic Manta (ray), a leaping flash of flying fish, and a trio of huge flop-finned Ocean Sunfish that you'd mistake for sunning turtles or kiddie-pools.
Act III on the dark homeward leg brings quiet exhilaration and reflection amid exhaustion, marathon scrabble matches and bleary conversations. Organizer Ida Giriunas, who spends weeks pulling together all the people, is quietly jubilant. "This trip is not as spectacular as 2007, when we had a Macaronesian Shearwater, but great looks at the Bridled Tern make it all worth it. We're all grateful for the chance to get way out there! It's a fine cruise, and the birds are a bonus."
Fred Bouchard is a freelance writer from Belmont, MA.